The latest episode of the Tokaji Wine Knights podcast series profiles an exceptional career. Katalin Pintér, co-owner of Gerbeaud Ház and founder of Onyx Restaurant, spoke about her career, the transformation of Hungarian gastronomy, and why Tokaj wine is so special to her.
Our article on the previous episode is available by clicking on this link: .
The beginnings of a career: from a coffee house to the world
The conversation paints a picture of a life journey that began at one of Budapest’s iconic venues in the world of traditional hospitality, It began at the New York Café , then led through international luxury hotels back to the defining institutions of Hungarian gastronomy.
Katalin Pintér recalls what the state of the hospitality industry in Hungary was like in the 1970s and 1980s, and how the mindset that later became the foundation for a revival in quality took shape.
The expert really does know quality inside out; in his own words, the sourcing and selection of ingredients are of paramount importance if we want to deliver quality. „You can never make a good meal from poor-quality meat and poor-quality vegetables.”
Gerbeaud and a new „golden age”
Around the turn of the millennium, the acquisition of Gerbeaud Café and Confectionery was a milestone, as it was not merely the reopening of a historic venue, but a reinterpretation of an era that began with crisis management.
The aim was to combine classic values with modern hospitality techniques to create a new „golden age” that builds on both tradition and innovation.
The gastronomic revolution and discipline
One of the central themes of the discussion is the transformation of Hungarian gastronomy. According to Katalin Pintér, the key to this development lies not only in creativity, but also in technological discipline. In other words, in the reproduction of perfect dishes, where the kitchen becomes a laboratory in which every step and process is precisely timed to the second.
It is this approach that has led to Hungarian restaurants increasingly catching up with the international elite.
Onyx’s Journey to the Summit
The history of the Onyx Restaurant is a fine example of this development: the award of Michelin stars is the result of deliberate development, consistent quality and constant innovation.
After earning their second star, there was a brief pause in operations when they felt an update was needed, but the Covid pandemic fundamentally changed the restaurant’s image, mission and philosophy.
This is how the concept of Onyx Műhely was born, representing an experimental, forward-looking gastronomy that goes beyond the boundaries of traditional fine dining.
Environmentally conscious practices have also made their mark in the world of gastronomy. Onyx’s Green Michelin Star is not only a mark of professional recognition, but also confirmation that sustainability is now a fundamental requirement of haute cuisine.
Wine and food: an inseparable pairing
The role of wine is becoming less and less important to guests, but not so for Katalin. She still considers it the drink of choice, in contrast to the currently trendy teas and fermented drinks. She believes that the right pairing not only complements the food, but defines the whole experience.
„When the wine and food dance on your palate, because they’re made for each other. That’s the real sense of achievement,” says Katalin.
The expert also spoke about how health consciousness and quality are reflected in wine consumption.
International organisations and professional networks
The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is a gastronomic order founded in the 13th century. As its Hungarian representative, Katalin Pintér plays an active role in the work of the international gastronomic community. The conversation highlights the important role these networks play in knowledge sharing and professional development, and, where appropriate, in promoting Tokaj-Hegyalja.
Tokaj and Aszú – a personal connection
One of the most personal aspects of the episode is Katalin Pintér’s connection with the Tokaji Wine Knights’ Order and Tokaji Aszú.
It becomes clear from the conversation that, for him, Tokaj wine is not merely an excellent drink, but also holds cultural and emotional value, forming an important part of Hungarian identity.
The podcast concludes with a striking assertion. Tokaj wine is not only a pleasure but also a „medicine” – in a figurative sense, of course, as a symbol of quality of life and cultural heritage.
The full conversation is available here:
